Around Page: Antelope Canyon,
Alstrom Point & Horseshoe Bend

Journey map

Approximately:

• from Outpost Paria Station (A) to Antelope Canyons (B): 37 miles and 45 mn drive on road
• from Antelope Canyons (B) to Alstrom Point (C): 45 miles and 1h45 drive on road/dirt road
• from Alstrom Point (C) to Page (D): 39 miles and 1h40 drive on dirt road/road
• from Page (D) to Horseshoe Bend (E): 5 miles and 10 mn drive on road

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Friday, June 12

Wake up at 5:30 am (Utah) and 2 hours later we leave the housing of Susan and Steve Dodson towards Page (Arizona) and Antelope Canyon; it's 54°F.
Located on the Navajo Nation, Antelope Canyon is composed of two parts, Lower and Upper. Upper is the busiest and the time slot the most preferred is near noon to benefit of the famous beams of light when the sun's rays are vertical and illuminate the canyon floor. Lower is much less crowded and is therefore much fun to visit.

Arrived at the Navajo Tribal Park at 9am Utah (8am Arizona), we pay our entry ($ 6 per person, keep the ticket for the 2 parking lots), reserve our turn to Upper Antelope Canyon ($ 50) at 11am (we must arrive at 10:45 because they don't have tickets, we just scored on a separate sheet of paper, ahem) and we go to Lower Antelope Canyon, located a little further, on the other side of the road, towards Antelope marina . We buy our tickets ($ 40) and, fairly quickly, we go to the Canyon (9:30) with our cameras, camcorder and tripods and our Navajo guide. When we see the entering, it's hard to imagine that such wonders can exist and, at the same time, it's also so dangerous. There have been several deaths in this canyon during a torrential flood (flash flood).
There is such a dynamic light that it's difficult to photograph; avoid external light because the picture is either completely "burned" or the interior is black. I take a few shots for the "HDR" technique that involves taking multiple shots with different settings and to "superimpose" in order to try to encompass the dynamics of the area. In the following pictures, some have been treated with this technique, but we're still far from experienced.
Our Navajo guide gets ahead, accompanying our visit of a few guitar notes. Overall, he leaves us alone and, unlike the other part of the canyon (Upper), there are not too crowded.

We left the canyon at 11am (Utah) ; the temperature was very nice inside but outside, it's 81°F and no shade.

We leave again for Upper and fortunately, no problem, we were well recorded.
Departure by covered truck, we discuss nicely with a young Swiss woman who speaks French well enough (it's not her area, she is a native of the German side). Unlike many forumers of VF, the trip went well, not too shaken, not too fast, no race between trucks.
After about 10 minutes away, we are on site. We take all our photos with our tripods, sometimes with multiple exposures, and it's often necessary to impose because, if some ones respect the others, it's far from being the case of everybody, even the guides! We must respect their timing.
The exit of the canyon is reached at 1pm after an hour of pure bliss; even if we have seen many pictures of this place, the reality is always different, the atmosphere and the feeling is there.
Our guide gives us the choice to return from the outside or inside. Guess what we do?
He tells us that we have 20 minutes to make the journey in reverse and he'll expect us at the exit; we don't miss the truck for the trip back!

We left to Page for a snack in our car, on a large parking lot. We barely have time to eat (rather quickly) that beep-beep-beep, our UPS tells us that the battery voltage of the car is low. Indeed, we all stop and ... the engine don't start, same symptoms as at the Grand Canyon. The battery (or alternator) has a problem, we don't discharge a battery in an hour with only a cooler and a battery charger. I would have no qualms about presenting the bill to Alamo on return.
Finally, I let it rest and some time later, the car condescends to start. For the next trip (because there will be a next ), I'll bring my battery cables!

We leave for Stud Horse Point at 3:30 pm with 81°F on thermometer, but we get lost (point problem on the GPS?) and decide to leave early to Alstrom Point.
After crossing a small stream, we begin the very fast track (no problem said a ranger at Big Water).
Small stroll near Nipple Bench in the Badlands with gray-black tints, with a few hoodoos.
Then we continue to Kelly Grade Overlook and we find again beautifully colored clay, red ocher, yellow, and a mixture of gray and black.
We decide not to make the climb and just stay at the foot of the hill. There must have shooters here because I discover a socket.
We return on the track on a completely dark area then we continue towards Alstrom Point where we quickly reach the first viewpoint.
Later, Isabelle is forced to get out of car to guide me, the track is quite rough. Shortly after, cry from Isabelle ... steam is coming from the engine hood .
I stop and carefully open the hood: the radiator has no cap! It jumped with the vapor pressure and the engine block is covered with pink antifreeze.
We were not moving fast given the state of the track, but it's weird that the engine has warmed as much (I'll find out the real reason much later, but ... you have to wait to find out) ).
We take this forced break to photograph the lake and decide, it's much more reasonable dixit Isabelle, to make u-turn; so much the worse for the night under the stars at the top of Alstrom Point and for the great pictures Philippe shown to us .
We fill the radiator and here we go again towards Page, it's 7pm. "Strange" lights are always lit on the dashboard but the engine coolant temperature gauge indicator has dropped

We arrive at 8:30 pm at Bashful Bob's Motel; Bob has charming and spirited character but, unfortunately, the young couple before us has just stolen us right under our nose the last room available. But Bob does not give up its visitors and, after a few phone calls (free!), he shows us another hotel, a big thank you to him. So we settle at Page Boy Motel.

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Saturday, June 13

The criticisms we have of Page Boy Motel are mixed, but we found it quite right (especially for one night without a reservation). Only downside: the price ($ 71) that we find a bit high for a room without breakfast.

We start at 9:45 am with 73°F. A brief stop at Walmart, refueling and we arrive at Horseshoe Bend at 10:15. Little walk in the sun (it climbs a little) and descent to an unknown location on guidebook (thank you ouestusa); the approach doesn't indicate the final view.
When we arrive where we must be, the view is magnificent: the meandering Colorado at our feet is well worth the few efforts to arrive (and leave). But beware, no shade nearby!
We take the first pictures standing near the edge of the cliff and the 28 mm of Isabelle's camera is not enough to cover the entire frame; for the following photos, I'm lying on the rock, as the emptiness is awesome.
The Colorado River, after its stop at the dam, flows peacefully and we see boats and kayaks below.

At 11:10, we're back to the car (1.25 miles walk) and leave for Grand Canyon North.