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Thermopolis

Journey map

Approximately:

• from Moneta (A) to Thermopolis (B): 54 miles and 0h55 on road
• from Thermopolis (B) to Legend Rock Petroglyph Site (C): 30 miles and 0h40 on road/dirt road
• from Legend Rock (C) to Gooseberry Badlands (D): 27 miles and 0h40 on dirt road/road
• from Gooseberry Badlands (D) to Cody (E): 57 miles and 1h on road

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J47 - Tuesday, June 26 (continued)

We find again a paved road at Moneta after viewing many antelopes, still so wild. Rapid crossing of Shoshoni towards north and we pass the Boysen Reservoir, formed by the dam of the same name; small quick stop. Then, the road follows the Wind River which plunges through the mountains (Wind River Canyon); there is only space for the river, the road and the railway, and again thanks to some tunnels. Very nice road.

We arrive at Thermopolis and go to Headquarters to take the key, not the key to Heavens but for Legend Rock where we will go tomorrow; but recently, this key has become useless, at least in season, as a VC was created on site.
Thermopolis, as the origin of its name suggests, is famous for its hot springs, foretaste of Yellowstone. Purchase of postcards then we go book a night at the Fountain Of Youth RV Park north of the city. This place offers the usual benefits of organized camps (Wi-Fi, washing machines ...) and a pool (3 bassins) fed by a hydrothermal source, all for $ 30 / day. The manager has a little trouble to understand why we definitely want to stay here while we have no RV .
Laundry, swim in the pool where the 3 basins are respectively at 93, 100 and 108 °F with the well springing at 127 °F (natural cooling); we limit ourselves to the first two basins only. Lunch and departure to the city at 2:18 pm; the wind, which definitely does not let us quiet, has started to blow very strong (and when a Breton tells you it's strong , he knows whereof he speaks).
Before entering the city, we find two viewpoints on Hwy 20, along the Bighorn River.

We enter in Hot Springs Park and stop at The State Bath House. Another bath with water at 104 °F this time, limited to 30 minutes and monitored by rangers. We met a nice couple, American husband, Norman woman. Then stroll among the local sights: terraces, small geysers, fumaroles ... bison .
We return to the city center to enjoy a huuuuge ice-cream and a blow to drink, as it's hot (97 °F in shade). Back to camp and pool again; I try the basin at 108 °F but capitulate after 5 minutes, it's definitely too hot for us.
The dust raised by the wind is so dense that the horizon is limited to about 700 yards, a yellowish-reddish tone, unpleasant. Isabelle even thought smelling a faint smell of smoke; we feel being surrounded.
Usual evening ritual, cocktails, sort of photos, download to Picasa, dinner and sleep at 10:12 pm, the wind calmed down but the sky is leaden, all ugly.

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J48 - Wednesday, June 27

Wake up at 6am , the sky is always full of dust; breakfast then departure at 7:25 (61 °F). We take the Hwy 120 towards Cody but with 2 stages on the road. After twenty miles, we take a road on left, Upper Cottonwood Creek Rd, well marked, road then track, but no problem, even with a RV. Full of pronghorns on the track and in the neighboring pastures, but we must use the longer lens (equivalent to 450) if we want to see something decent. We arrive at Legend Rock at 8:14 with 72 °F, the guardian of the place has just open the gate and we discuss with her about the site and her job in the new VC. I asked her if telephoto is essential and she said no because we can approach the petroglyphs near enough; I follow her advice but fatal error because the telephoto is almost indispensable.
Very easy walk at the foot of a rocky escarpment with a profusion of petroglyphs which approximately 300 identified, Dinwoody type, some dated about a thousand years. This site, worldwide known, yet one does not much talk about him.
We leave again at 9:08 but, before, Isabelle gives us a brilliant demonstration of her mastery of the local language: an American (a biker) asks if the site is worth the ride and Isabelle replies. We are convinced that the American has taken her for a countrywoman. Well, okay, she gave only one word: "Yeah" but with what accent! She even turned round to see if it was she who had spoken .

Back on the 120 and, 12 miles later, we take the 431 on the right towards Gooseberry Scenic Area about 7 miles. This small area of "Badlands" is well worth a visit; a footpath winds roughly adapted in the site, leading us among a forest of red hoodoos, orange and purple. These colors are due to ferrous oxides deposited some millions of years ago. This trail is not very long as we only have 1.20 miles on our pedometer returning to the car. We start the hike at 9:50 am and return at 10:29 am, barely 40 minutes.
Possibly do care, this site is known for snakes (we have not seen)!

We take again the road to Cody where we arrive at 11:44 am (75 °F only). Some shopping at Walmart until 12:15 then we'll eat at Proud Cut Saloon. The restaurant is good, from time to time . Not disappointed with our plates.
We set off again at 1:44 pm, towards the Big Bear Motel, one of our few reservations. Some problems with Tomtom, my GPS point is obviously wrong, but we eventually get there . Motel very convenient, corresponding to our expectations: large bedroom, king bed, large bath but however a small fridge.

Sort of our pictures, download on Picasa, bath and quick aperitif and we walk (hence the choice of this motel) to the Rodéo of Cody. We have taken note of the ethical problems associated with rodeos, but we can't come to the U.S. without seeing at least one. And we have enjoyed (us, neither the bulls nor the stallions ) ; it's a show to see at least once, for the behavior of spectators and for the rodeo itself.
Parade, ride of wild horses and bulls, cattle roping capture, all that with accents of Country Music, this is what constitutes the essence of a rodeo.

After the initial parade and the national anthem sung by all local citizens, serious things begin (timeline not strictly respected) with Bareback Bronc Riding where the cowboy should stay 8 seconds, then Saddle Bronc Riding and, towards the end, Barrel Racing, an speed exercise where cowgirls realize shaped figures clover between 3 cans, as quickly as possible.

The next test, Calf Roping, descending straight from the job of cowboys, is lassoing a calf then immobilize it by attaching the 4 legs, all this as quick as possible, obviously.

Then comes Team Roping where 2 cowboys have to catch a steer, following strict rules.

And finally, the showpiece event, Bull Riding; here too, the cowboy must stay 8 seconds and this is far from always being the case.

Back to the motel at 10pm and we prepare rice salad, choice of photos to Picasa and sleep at midnight.