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Tuckup Canyon & Toroweap

Journey map

Approximately:

• from Hildale (A) to Tuckup Canyon (C) : 76 miles and 3h46 on road/dirt road
• from Tuckup Canyon (C) to Toroweap (E) : 43 miles and 2h50 on dirt road
• from Toroweap (E) to Page (G) : 178 miles and 6h17 on dirt road/road

J14 - Thursday, May 24 (continued)

After our meal, we leave Hildale at 1:45pm and, after refueling gas and water, we begin to drive on the long track to Toroweap. We have two goals in this area, Tuckup Canyon pictographs which are among the oldest in the USA and Toroweap for sunrise on the Colorado.
This track has a reputation for being very hard on tires, according to park rangers, 25% of vehicles were punctured at least once. That's why I bought a repair kit and a compressor.
The beginning of the trail is very easy, even rolling and we pass several trucks. After 31 miles, shortly after Findlay Knolls, we turn left and, after about 8 miles, where the track is really a track (sandy, wide enough for only one car), we stop having reached the park boundary Grand Canyon National. As we don't have a backcountry permit for the night, it is strongly recommended not to sleep in the park, the fine can be very hefty. We find a great location, not far from the track in the forest rather sparse pines and junipers. Obviously we are not the first to use this place; it is 4pm and the temperature is 79 ° F.

J15 - Friday, May 25

We leave our site at 6:52am and, immediately crossed the boundaries of the park, the trail gets bumpy, rough, not very nice; short branches often rub the sides of the car. We leave the forest and the trail becomes pleasant again although with some difficult passages. The last few miles before the trailhead for Tuckup Canyon are downright hard. We arrive at 7:40 am and the temperature is very warm (57 ° F), which should be nice for hiking.
We start the hike at 8:05 am with a strong wind and a lot of clouds; this hike is given for 3.5 miles and 587 yards of vertical drop . The descent is long and steep and Isabelle quickly enough lets me go ahead.

I arrive at 10:15 am and am seeking an access to the panel of pictographs because it is located on a hillside, several feet above the wash and you have to climb a bit. Isabelle joins me 15 minutes later with 4.8 miles on pedometer, our step being smaller than during calibration.
This panel of pictographs is called Shamans' Gallery or Gordon's Panel, the name of its discoverer, Gordon Smith, in 1986. It is one of the oldest of the USA; these pictographs are believed to have been painted before 1000 BC.
There is very little information on the situation of the panel, but with perseverance, I finally locate it. Then I found someone who confirmed my GPS point.

This panel is really beautiful and I don't regret having come so far, even if the way up is yet to come , but this is not quite the way to see of Isabelle (and for what?).
There is, pell-mell, many humanoid figures, animals, hunting scenes, in uncommon shades. In the opinion of specialists, the panel would not Barrier style but Grand Canyon Polychrom. For more information, here are two links on the subject:

• description of style
• explanations

We leave the panel at 11:20 am and start the loooong ascent, always with a very high winds the thermometer must now exceed 68 ° F. A few photo stops later (to take a breath) , snack and beverage break, and after a final effort, we arrive at the car. On the pedometer, 8.8 miles, which is right, pedometer or map? Isabelle is furious, she don't like this hike: "and for what?". t is 2:34 pm and thermometer reads 75 ° F.
Finally, after being quenched and well rested, we must admit that this hike we nevertheless provided spectacular scenery. Virtually all websites that describe this hike give it as "strenuous" because of difference in altitude (587 yards) but we had the chance to finally get a temperature not too high and, despite our lack of training, the few efforts made since our arrival have allowed us to overcome the obstacle .

We leave at 2:55 pm, crossing the park boundary at 3:36 pm, so 41 minutes for 7.6 miles, that shows the poor condition of the track. We join the main track at 3:55 pm and after refreshment, we continue the descent to Toroweap. With the wind, large clumps of grass (twirling or Salsola tragus) cross the track as in westerns . We make a short stop (4:42 pm, restroom) at Ranger station but see nobody; we leave at 4h51 pm. As earlier, since we returned into the park, the trail is rough again so much that sometimes you go faster on foot; it's not a surprise that, on this track, 25% vehicles have a flat at least once (statistical from rangers). We arrive at Toroweap campground at 5:15 pm. The first 3 sites are occupied, and to reach the followings, we have to drive down a step at least 2 feet. After thorough inspection, I give up and continue on foot. In the next site, I begin a discussion with its occupant, Chuck. The camp is full, but he suggests us, without even ask him, to share his location: nice, no! But when I explain to him that we sleep in the car and I don't dare to drive down the step, he offers to me to come and guide me, reassuring me. And indeed, a few minutes later, it's ok, although with a few scares, especially when, on 3 wheels (according to Isabelle who observes from outside and immortalizes the moment on video), brakes locked, the car continues straight down without even asking my opinion.
Arrived at his site, I suggest a glass to Chuck who refuses; ditto for beer, wine, cocktail. He laughs when I ask if he is Mormon, but no, he doesn't drink liquor, that's all. The wind is so violent that he left his tent and he and his wife are in the back of their car.
I thought going to take some photos in the area but we imitate them, because the sand raised by the wind goes everywhere (6 on Beaufort scale - Strong breeze ).

J16 - Saturday, May 26

Wake up at 4am, one of the very few times when we make ring our phone (alarm clock); a little hard but the sun isn’t going to wait for us . We put our car in day position quickly and as silently as possible to not wake our neighbors and we go to the overlook at 4:30. The tricky stretch is even worst over night. Isabelle gets out of our car to guide me, climbs on top of the obstacle, but either I'm flat on the bottom and I don't see her, either my front wheels are up and headlights light up the sky. After the third failed attempt, I decide to force through and it's ok, scraping a bit anyway . The track is always rough to reach the rim of the Grand Canyon and it seems worse at night but we finally arrive at the old campground.
We grasp cameras and tripods and start looking for a convenient place where unpack our equipment. We believe we have found the optimal location and the waiting period for dawn begins, when everything can magnify. But in addition to the cold wind that freezes us, the sky fills up with a thick cloud cover and doubt sets in, grows and finally, we need to face the facts: it will not be today we take THE photo of Toroweap . It's depressing to have made so many miles for that.
Back to the car at 6am for breakfast and then, it's infuriating: the sun appears. We leave to the rim for a few pictures, though dawn has passed.

We leave at 7:45 to Page (54 ° F) and pass 2 photographers cars stopped on the edge of the track. One of the two vehicles is a sedan; the guy is fearless given the state of the track. Further, 5 mule deer canter not far from us. At 8:26, we make a brief stop at the ranger station. After leaving the park, the trail becomes very rolling and we can accelerate to 60 mph in the straights. We arrive at 9:43 am on the 389 Rd; almost 2 hours for 59 miles.
At Cliff Dwellers, the road runs along the Vermillon Cliffs; this is just beautiful. Roadsides are not left out: scalloped with green, cream and pink grass which shimmers, waving in the wind always powerful.
Another stop at VC Navajo Bridge to buy books detected on outward journey and we leave at 11:49 (73 ° F); the strong wind raises clouds of dust. After Navajo Pass, horizon is obscured by veil pinkish sand in suspension; it changes us from Breton fog .
We arrived at 12:34 pm at Debbie's to 72 ° F. Very friendly welcome; dump of our car, internet, laundry (washing machine and dryer are available to us) and transfer of photos to Picasa for our "followers" in France.
The accommodation we chose is more than a bedroom, it is a complete apartment: kitchen, living room, bedroom and bathroom. The living room has two sofas and there is additional sleeping. In short, we liked this property, even if the price is a bit high (better for a family). A little later, we will replenish our pantry.
In the evening, we go eat at Fiesta Mexicana, recommended by our friends from LA and we do not regret, we shall return there a few days later. Go to bed at 9:20 pm.